The Art of Place: An Urban Sketching and Plein Air Retreat

Intrigued by man-made facsimiles of natural environments such as the compressed interiors of botanical gardens, Susan strives to capture the interplay between reality and artificiality. Colorfully gestural acrylic paintings appear to be drawn from the exotic locales of the American Southwest or the Caribbean. They are in fact compositions from manmade urban greenhouses, which are revealed through the precise placement of sculptural succulents or panes of reflective glass. The theme of nature’s reconquest can be seen in the scale and weighty personification of plant life, as well as the decaying detritus of human industry. From the artist and critic Helen Hummel, “At first her work will appear chaotic and formless, but then it will burst into form and space in a most remarkable way.” Susan’s creative processes are a contemporary trompe l’oil, engaging the viewer to closely examine the depicted visual reality.

Susan has been a painter and Urban Sketcher for over 40 years and earned a BFA from the School of the Museum of Fine Arts and Tufts University in Boston. Presently, she serves on the Board of the Art League of New Britain, CT, the Programming Committee for Ball and Socket Arts, Cheshire, CT and is the Administrator for Urban Sketchers of Central Connecticut. She had her first show at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston with Arthur Yanoff, curated by Kenworth Moffett and went on to exhibit in juried shows throughout the United States, including the Connecticut Academy of Fine Arts at the Slater Art Museum, the Mystic Art Museum, the Art League of New Britain, and the White Gallery. In Canada, she was an invited guest artist of the Conseil des Arts du Canada at the Symposium of Baie St. Paul. She has been an artist in residence at the Virginia Center for the Arts and the Edna St. Vincent Millay artist’s colony. Works are in the Museum of Fine Arts Boston, and in private collections worldwide. See more of Susan’s work here.

Susan’s Demonstrations in Foreground Landscape

Texture and Mark Making in Acrylics (Sunday, September 19, 2027)

Have you ever wondered how to simplify lush foliage and different types of greenery?  Do you want to not have to paint every leaf, but still have something that’s recognizably plant life?  In this demonstration, we’ll experiment with different tools for mark making and how to quickly capture foreground and middleground landscapes.  We’ll practice using the tools and techniques and then apply it to a plein air farm scene.

Layers and Glazing in Panoramic Landscape (Wednesday, September 22, 2027)

Do you use acrylics like oils or watercolors?  In this demo, we’ll explore some of the unique properties of acrylics and learn some techniques to capture a panoramic vista.  From the spectacular view at the end of Sant’Agata de’ Goti’s historic center, we will learn how to create subtle changes in color using glazing and transparent mediums.

John is a professional product designer and design consultant with more than 35 years of experience and a degree in Design from De Montfort University in England. Throughout his career, John’s been responsible for the design of multiple award-winning products across Europe and the USA.

Outside of his professional work, he is slightly addicted to urban sketching. He has attended two International Urban Sketchers Symposiums taken classes from leading luminaries like Stephanie Bower, Simone Ridyard and Reham M. Ali, and has taught perspective drawing and illustration techniques for his local Central Connecticut Urban Sketchers chapter. He is never without a sketchbook and a simple watercolor kit when he travels, and he loves capturing the character and atmosphere of the places he visits.

He’s excited to share his approach to urban sketching, demonstrate his techniques, and help everyone discover just how enjoyable—and surprisingly achievable—urban sketching can be, regardless of experience.

Look John up on Instagram at: jlaverack43.  There you will see several time-lapse demonstration videos and some finished work.

John’s Urban Sketching Classes

Demo at Cusano Mutri (His First Demo) (Monday, September 20, 2027)

John will begin by demonstrating how he approaches a new sketch, talking through his process as he simplifies the scene and focuses on capturing its essence without becoming overwhelmed by detail. Once he’s established the basic pencil drawing, everyone can follow along at their own pace—there’s no race and definitely no ‘right’ way to do it

From there, he’ll demonstrate how he strengthens the drawing with waterproof ink before introducing watercolor washes to establish light, color, and atmosphere. Participants will follow along at their own pace.

To finish, he’ll demonstrate how he adds richer color, shadows, highlights, and, of course, the all-important brush spatter that brings an illustration to life. We’ll complete the sketch with carefully placed line work to emphasize key details without overworking the drawing.

Throughout the session, John will be available to offer individual guidance and answer questions. We’ll wrap up by sharing our sketches, discussing different approaches, and celebrating the wonderfully different ways we’ve all interpreted the same scene. It’s going to be a fun, relaxed, and inspiring experience!

Demo at Sant’Agata de’ Goti (His Second Demo) (Tuesday, September 21, 2027)

Our second session builds on the skills developed in Sant’ Agata as we take on a more challenging subject. We’ll explore a more complex streetscape featuring two-point perspective, varied rooflines, and—if the location allows—a dramatic vanishing point that adds depth and energy to the composition. As always, the exact subject will depend on finding a comfortable sketching location away from traffic.

John will introduce a simple but incredibly effective technique for improving proportions and placing the subject accurately on the page—a method he relies on constantly in his own sketching. He’ll also bring several inexpensive measuring tools for participants to try.

We’ll work through the same step-by-step process as before, beginning with a loose pencil sketch. This time, however, we’ll develop the drawing further with pencil before moving into watercolor, encouraging a lighter touch and allowing the brushwork to do more of the storytelling.

The goal is to rely less on line and more on expressive watercolor, creating sketches with a softer, more atmospheric feel while still capturing the character of the scene.

As before, he’ll demonstrate each stage of the process, pause for questions, and provide plenty of individual coaching. By the end of the session, everyone will have picked up new techniques, grown in confidence, and discovered that even the sketches that don’t go quite to plan often turn out to be the most interesting.

Benvenuti a Napoli! Dan and Maria extend a warm welcome as you arrive in the vibrant city of Naples.* Our journey begins with a quintessential Neapolitan experience—a stop for un caffè and a delicious sfogliatella, a pastry that originated in this historic city. From Naples we make our way to the enchanting medieval town of Sant’Agata dei Goti, where our home for the week awaits: the magnificent 17th-century Palazzo Rainone Mustilli.

Nestled in the heart of Sant’Agata, the palazzo is surrounded by rich history and serene beauty. The chants of cloistered nuns can sometimes be heard emanating from the nearby convent. The palazzo is a short stroll from the original Mustilli winery, the birthplace of the renowned Falanghina wine. The Mustilli family, particularly Paola, will be our gracious hosts, offering us an intimate glimpse into their centuries-old winemaking tradition.

We’ll take a short walk to the Mustilli family palazzo where they have lived for decades. Paola will show us to a private courtyard there where we’ll have a chance to get some sketching in our first day.

Afterward, we’ll return to the palazzo to relax before our welcome dinner, a true farm-to-table experience prepared by Signora Maria, a local massara (homemaker). Her dishes, crafted with ingredients from her farm, promise to be a highlight of our first evening together.**

*The program starts at noon on Saturday at Naples Capodichino Airport, regardless of when you arrive in Italy. Dan and Maria will be at the airport arrival area late morning.  If time permits and you are staying in a local hotel, we will do our best to arrange to meet you at the hotel, rather than have you make your way back to the airport.

We suggest that you plan on arriving in Naples before the first day of the program to get the most out of your Vita Villaggi experience. If you’re interested in a pre- and/or post-extension trip, you can find more information here. If you’re simply looking for a place to stay in Naples for a night or two, we recommend the following hotels there:  Hotel San Francesco al Monte and Starhotels Terminus.

**Note: In Italy, dinner is typically enjoyed later in the evening, around 8 pm or so. We’ll be dining in true Italian style throughout our stay.

No visit to the Sannio is complete without experiencing a traditional mercato, or outdoor market. On Sunday, Sant’Agata dei Goti becomes even more alive with an outdoor market, where locals shop for everything from fresh produce to artisanal goods, clothing, and more. After breakfast, we’ll spend the morning browsing the stalls, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere and, in all likelihood, picking up a few treasures to take home.

Before the mercato, however, we’ll do some warm-up sketching so that you’ll be better prepared to capture a scene there. Dan and Maria will be your live models!

After the mercato, we’ll take a short ride outside of town to the Sannio countryside. Although it’s only a short distance, it feels like a different world. There we will be the guests of Amelia and her husband Franco at their family-run agriturismo (family-run working farms serving meals made with items grown there), located on a panoramic hill surrounded by lush greenery and centuries-old olive trees and vineyards. Their commitment to organic farming makes the food made with those ingredients truly amazing. They also produce excellent tomato passata, sotto aceti (pickled canned vegetables), jams, and olive oil.

Here, Susan will share some of her hard-won knowledge in her demonstration Foreground Landscape Texture and Mark Making in Acrylics. (Susan’s demo is described in more detail above.)

We’ll also have a lovely dinner here of local specialties from the farm.

Today, we explore more of the Sannio region and visit the fairytale like town of Cusano Mutri. Perched over 1500 feet above sea level, it offers a medieval historic center and surroundings lands that are rich in mushrooms, truffles, and chestnuts. Cusano, unlike many surrounding towns, was unscathed by the earthquake of 1688. Thus, its architecture and historic layout are preserved. The high altitude and abundant woods are ideal for foraging in what the Italians call the sottobosco (undergrowth), which is rich in chestnuts and mushrooms. The mushrooms of Cusano are so famous that for four weeks in early fall, people flock to the town for the Sagra dei Funghi, or Mushroom Festival. This tiny town of 3700 people becomes a hotbed of activity and receives over 100,000 visitors during the festival.

After a short introduction in the heart of the village, we will take a short bus ride to the woods where Mario will lead us on a truffle hunt with his trusted truffle hunting dog. If time permits, we may gather some chestnuts as well.

It is here in Cusano Mustri that John will give his first urban sketching demo focused on creating an architectural sketch that captures the beauty and charm of this historic place. (John’s demo is described in more detail above.)

We’ll return to Sant’Agata de’ Goti and after some time to rest, we’ll walk over to the Mustilli historic wine cellar. Paola will lead us on a private tour of the original centuries-old wine cellar, which reaches a maximum depth of over fifty feet and was made by tunneling into the tufo rock. We’ll learn the winery’s history and take part in a wine tasting in the cantina (wine cellar) of the original winery sampling some of the famous Mustilli wines. We’ll also have a light dinner of locally sourced ingredient prepared by a local massara (homemaker)

The wine cellar that we tour, the Falanghina that we taste today, and Paola herself were featured on Tucci in Italy (Season 2, Episode 1, Naples & Campania). See the trailer on Instagram.

Today, we delve into the rich history and culture of Sant’Agata dei Goti. After breakfast, we go on an historical and gastronomic tour led by Rosangela, our very knowledgeable guide eager to share her hometown. As we stroll through the heart of the town’s historical center, Rosangela will share stories of the town’s past and its hidden treasures. Along the way, we’ll stop at family-owned eateries to savor local specialties such as the local taralli called Nfrennule and ravioli made with the prized mela annurca–apples only grown in this area.

Our tour culminates with a lunch traditionally prepared for field workers, known as a colazione. Ours will be prepared by Marisa at her small gastronomic bottega using heirloom and local products. Marisa prides herself in offering products particular to the local farming area that are organically grown and ethically sourced. Our lunch will include a slow-rise bread made with stone-ground native non-GMO grains and an over thirty-year-old sourdough starter. The bread will be used to make two types of sandwiches, one with prosciutto from the famous black pigs of Casertano that are semi-free range and one made with eggs (a pane e frittata) from a native species of ancient hens of the Sannio that are raised strictly free-range.

Afterwards, John will give his second urban sketching demo, building on the skills from his first demo, here in town. He will explore a more complex streetscape featuring two-point perspective, varied rooflines, and—if the location allows—a dramatic vanishing point that adds depth and energy to the composition. As always, the exact subject will depend on finding a comfortable sketching location away from traffic. (John’s demo is described in more detail above.)

Dinner will be at an excellent osteria in the historic center of Sant’Agata, where we’ll enjoy a tasting menu showcasing the best of the region’s culinary offerings, including the much-loved pane cotto.

Today, we’ll explore the art scene in Sant’Agata de’ Goti. We’ll meet some local artists, visit some local studios, and sketch or paint a bit more.

We’ll make our way to the end of town where we’ll find an absolutely spectacular panoramic view. We’ll have lunch here and then Susan will give her very apt second demo, Layers and Glazing in Panoramic Landscapes. (Susan’s demo is described in more detail above.)

Late afternoon we’ll stroll on over once more to the cantina of the original Mustilli winery (the site of the wine-tasting on Monday) for a pasta-making class. Signora Maria will be our guide. We’ll learn the art of crafting pasta by hand, which will become the heart of our supper tonight.

For those on the 6-day program, enjoy your last breakfast with us and depart for Naples airport. Whether you’re going back home or taking advantage of a trip extension, safe travels and arrivederci! Grazie!

For those on the 8-day program, dress casually and comfortably this morning because we are heading for a hands-on harvesting experience in San Lorenzello, Maria’s birthplace. After breakfast, we make our way to the Fappiano winery. This is a special place for Maria as the vineyards are close to the family land that Maria’s father used to own while she was growing up. This hands-on, immersive experience led by Mario includes harvesting the grapes, observing the grapes being crushed, learning how the wine is bottled, and touring the cantina (wine cellar). We’ll meet the owner and learn about his award-winning wines, including one awarded Tre Bicchiere by Gambero Rosso.

We will then have an authentic harvest pranzo. These midday meals are prepared by the casalinghe, or homemakers, as it is customary to feed those that help with the harvest. The meal is usually eaten in the vineyards picnic style; but we will be “roughing it” just a bit less by having ours in the farmhouse.

We’ll also have a chance to do some sketching in the vineyard or at the farmhouse.

On our way back to Sant’Agata de’ Goti, we’ll visit the studio of Salvatore Troiano, a talented local artist who transforms clay into modern interpretations of traditional Neapolitan symbols, such as the horn and the Pulcinella mascot. Salvatore’s classically trained in multiple disciplines including sculpting, painting and photography. He embarked on a journey of working with terracotta and creating traditional Pulcinella and the iconic cornicchio (horn) after studying the history of these symbols and their importance in Neapolitan folklore. We love his work.

We’ll have a light dinner tonight here in Sant’Agata.

This morning after breakfast, we depart for Cerreto Sannita, a small town of approximately 4,000 people. The town itself dates back a thousand years but the buildings we see date back to “only” 1688 when the town was rebuilt after it was destroyed by a powerful earthquake. We will make our way to the family-owned La Mozzarella d’oro, an excellent local caseificio (a place where cheese is made). Ana Cenicola and her family are opening their laboratorio so we can see milk be transformed into the iconic mozzarella, as well as other specialty cheeses.

After our tour, we will make our way to the Ceramic Museum. Cerreto is known for its master ceramicists and potters who maintain traditional pottery making techniques and color palettes. The museum is housed in a 17^th century building originally built as a convent for cloistered nuns. Through the years, it has also served as a monastery and even a jail. Today, it houses this gem of a museum, the town hall, and a courtyard which is often used for concerts and art exhibits. After a brief tour, we will meet a master potter for a demonstration of these traditional methods. After our visit, we wind our way through the Matese mountain region to the small hamlet of Pietraroja.

We’ll have a chance to sketch here in Cerreto Sannita as well. It is a beautiful medieval town and offers plenty of beautiful scenes to capture.

For lunch, we’ll stop at a local eatery employing young adults of all abilities and serving excellent food.

We’ll then return to Sant’Agata where you can relax or take the time to sketch some more.

For our last meal together, we will take a short walk from the palazzo to a local trattoria that serves some of our favorite pizza.

We have our final breakfast together before departing for Naples Capodichino Airport. Time to bid farewell to the Sannio and return home with memories of a week filled with history, culture, and incredible food. Whether you’re going back home or taking advantage of a trip extension, safe travels, grazie and arrivederci!!