Fall Week 3

Benvenuti a Napoli! Dan and Maria extend a warm welcome as you arrive in the vibrant city of Naples.* Our journey begins with a quintessential Neapolitan experience—a stop for un caffè and a delicious sfogliatella, a pastry that originated in this historic city. From Naples, we make our way to the enchanting medieval town of Sant’Agata dei Goti, where our home for the week awaits: the magnificent 17th-century Palazzo Rainone Mustilli.

Nestled in the heart of Sant’Agata, the palazzo is surrounded by rich history and serene beauty. The chants of cloistered nuns can sometimes be heard emanating from the nearby convent. The palazzo is a short stroll from the original Mustilli wine cellar, the birthplace of the renowned Falanghina wine. The Mustilli family, particularly Paola, will be our gracious hosts, offering us an intimate glimpse into their centuries-old winemaking tradition.

In the late afternoon, Paola, and her daughter/sommelier Isabella, will lead us on a private tour of the original centuries old wine cellar, which is carved into the tufo rock and reaches a maximum depth of over fifty feet below the road surface. We’ll immerse ourselves in the winery’s history and partake in an exclusive wine tasting in the cantina, or wine cellar, of the original winery, sampling some of the famous Mustilli wines.

After our tasting, we’ll head to a family-run pizzeria located in the middle of the historic center of Sant’Agata to start a hands-on pizza-making class. Under the guidance of Vincenzo our pizzaiolo, we’ll knead the dough and learn the secrets behind the perfect crust. Once prepared, the dough will be left to rise overnight, ready to be baked into your very own pizza tomorrow.

Afterward, we’ll return to the palazzo to relax before our welcome dinner, a true farm-to-table experience prepared by Signora Maria, a local contadina (farmer). Her dishes, crafted with ingredients from her farm, promise to be a highlight of our first evening together.**

*The program starts at noon on Monday at Naples Capodichino Airport, regardless of when you arrive in Italy. Dan and Maria will be at the airport arrival area between 10:00 am and noon.

We suggest that you plan on arriving in Naples before the first day of the program to be ready to enjoy the planned excursions from day one. We recommend the following hotels in Naples: Hotel San Francesco al Monte; Starhotels Terminus and Decumani Hotel de Charme

**Note: In Italy, dinner is typically enjoyed later in the evening, around 8 pm or so. We’ll be dining in true Italian style throughout our stay.

Today, we delve into the rich history and culture of Sant’Agata dei Goti. After breakfast, our day begins with a historical and gastronomic tour led by Rosangela, an enthusiastic local guide eager to share her hometown. As we stroll through the heart of the town’s historical center, Rosangela will share stories of the town’s past and its hidden treasures. Along the way, we’ll stop at family-owned eateries to savor local specialties such as the local taralli called “Nfrennule”, ravioli made with the prized “mela annurca” (a species of apple grown only in this area), and pane cotto.

Our tour culminates with a lunch traditionally prepared for field workers, known as a “colazione.” Ours will be prepared by Marisa at her small gastronomic bottega using heirloom and local products. Marisa prides herself in offering products particular to the local farming area that are organically grown and ethically sourced. She will lead us on a journey of history and flavors. Our lunch will include exceptional bread made with stone-ground native non-GMO grains and an over thirty-year-old sourdough starter, allowed to rise slowly. The bread will be used to make two types of sandwiches, one with prosciutto from the famous black pigs of Casertano, that are semi-free range and a “pane e frittata”, with eggs from a native species of ancient hens of the Sannio that are strictly free-range.

Our rustic meal will be served in the “Circolo Saticula” the local clubhouse, rather than the fields, but still offers a truly authentic experience.

After this lunch, the afternoon is yours to relax and explore the town at your own pace. In the evening, we reconvene at the pizzeria we visited last night to complete our pizza-making adventure, making the pizza with dough we prepared the night before.

This morning, we journey to the medieval hamlet of San Lorenzello, renowned for its taralli—savory, crunchy treats that are a local favorite. At Tarallificio Sagnella, Pasquale will guide us through the surprisingly involved process of making taralli, which includes both boiling and baking the dough. Originally flavored with fennel seeds that grow abundant throughout the Sannio, flavors now also include spicy chili peppers, whole-wheat, black pepper, and onion. After our hard work, we’ll enjoy a lunch featuring our homemade taralli and other local delights, prepared by the talented “casalinghe” or homemakers. Pasquale graciously offers us his home for us to enjoy the lunch, hopefully al fresco! This is a special place for Maria, she was born in San Lorenzello and her ancestors were friends with the Sagnella family.

Hopefully you have saved room for dessert! We’re off to the neighboring town of Faicchio, home to one of the area’s best gelaterias. Here, we’ll indulge in a gelato tasting, sampling an array of delicious flavors. The gelateria makes different flavors weekly, from the classics like Nutella, amarena and pistachio to more obscure flavors as cassata, Raffaello and malaga. Gelato is a delicious and perfect indulgence any day!

Dinner tonight is at an excellent osteria in the historic center of Sant’Agata, where we’ll enjoy a tasting menu showcasing the best of the region’s culinary offerings, including the much-loved pasta e faggioli.

Today’s adventure keeps us close to our home base but transports us to what feels like a different world, the Sannio countryside. After breakfast, we will be guests of Amelia and her husband at their family-run agriturismo located on a panoramic hill surrounded by lush greenery and centuries-old olive trees and vineyards for an authentic and rewarding experience. Their commitment to organic farming and the production of high-quality, tomato passata, “sotto aceti” (pickled canned vegetables), and olive oil makes this a haven for food and nature lovers alike. We’ll start the day by making dough for sourdough bread using local flour and the family’s decades-old sourdough starter. The dough we prepare today will rise slowly overnight and be baked fresh tomorrow morning when they will graciously deliver the warm loaves to us at the palazzo.

We’ll also bake boules prepared yesterday by Franco, Amelia’s husband, and allowed to rise overnight and enjoy them with our lunch, which we’ll prepare with Amelia. After gathering vegetables in the garden, we’ll create a traditional pranzo that reflects the daily meals of families in the Sannio region.

Late afternoon we’ll stroll on over once more to the cantina of the original Mustilli winery (the site of the wine-tasting on Monday) for another hands-on activity that should not be missed: a pasta-making class. Signora Maria will be our guide. We’ll learn the art of crafting pasta by hand, which will become the heart of our supper tonight.

Today we get to see an activity unique to Sant’Agata dei Goti. We will go to a “melaio” where we see and learn about the “mela annurca”. This native apple is unusual in that it requires ripening after it has been picked from the tree. See how the apples must be tended to reach ripeness. The apple is used for medicinal and culinary purposes. We will enjoy recipes made with the apples when we lunch at a nearby agriturismo.

Late afternoon, we travel to Telese Terme for a stop at the studio of Salvatore Troiano, a talented local artist who transforms clay into modern interpretations of traditional Neapolitan symbols, such as the horn and the Pulcinella mascot. Salvatore’s classically trained in multiple disciplines including sculpting, painting, and photography. He embarked on a journey of working with terracotta creating traditional Pulcinella and the iconic cornicchio (horn) after studying the history of these symbols and their importance in Neapolitan folklore. His pieces are interpretive and exquisite.

We then make our way to Melizzano for dinner at a delightful restaurant with contemporary Mediterranean-style decor in a valley of the Sannio. Large windows offer a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. The cuisine elevates traditional dishes to new heights and is made from locally sourced, seasonal ingredients by the owner-chef Angelo D’Amico who has worked in top restaurants, both in Italy and abroad.

Today’s adventure does not get more authentic than this! After breakfast, we travel to San Lupo, yet another village in the Sannio and where Dan and Maria have their home. We are greeted by Adele at her B&B Le Coste in this tiny hamlet, where we will participate in the olive harvest in the surrounding olive orchards! We will pick olives, lunch under the trees, and go to the mill to make oil.

The oil is processed continuously during the harvest to accommodate all the growers in the area. While we wait our turn to make oil from the harvested olives, we will be enjoying specialties made for us by the bread shop in town. Concetta, Antonio, and Giuseppe run the family shop and will be making us a typical lunch for day laborers helping with the harvest. Lunch will include their delicious breads! Local wines will accompany our rustic meal, including some award-winning ones.

In the afternoon, we’ll walk to the nearby mill, learn about the process of making olive oil, including the making of different grades, and watch olives be pressed into olive oil–that enduring staple of the Mediterranean diet. Afterwards, we will return to Le Coste for a tasting with a local expert in olive oil.

Our evening will be a real treat. We will have a celebratory dinner, which is often done in the Sannio to conclude a successful harvest. We will dine at Le Coste with a dinner prepared for us by a local cook, which will be sure to feature olive oils from the area!  If weather permits, we will be eating under the stars surrounded by olive trees while being serenaded with traditional Italian music!

No visit to the Sannio is complete without experiencing a traditional mercato, or outdoor market. On Sunday, Sant’Agata dei Goti becomes even more alive with an outdoor market, where locals shop for everything from fresh produce to artisanal goods, clothing, and more. After breakfast, we’ll spend the morning browsing the stalls, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere and, in all likelihood, picking up a few treasures to take home.

After the mercato, we return to the palazzo for a leisurely lunch. Sit back and relax as Maria and Dan arrange for a catered lunch to be delivered to the palazzo from a local take-out place that specializes in one of Dan’s favorites-frittatini di pasta; cooked short pasta shapes formed into a patty and deep fried. They come in several flavors including the classic Napoletana, cacio & pepe, and carbonara. We will be sure to include a classic dish or two like eggplant parmigiana as well, all accompanied by Mustilli wines.

After a leisurely afternoon, we’ll gather for our farewell dinner at a restaurant in the heart of Sant’Agata dei Goti, inside the Palazzo Viscardi. This restaurant is the creation of the siblings Gabriele and Gianna Piscitelli and offers an elevated dining experience. Chef Gabriele will prepare a creative menu based on seasonal ingredients. The wine selection is extraordinary, and Sommelier Gianna will share her extensive knowledge and provide excellent suggestions. This dinner will serve as a fitting end to our unforgettable week in the Sannio.

We have our final breakfast together before departing for Naples Capodichino Airport. Time to bid farewell to the Sannio and return home with memories of a week filled with history, culture, and incredible food. Safe travels and arrivederci!